These Are Our Neighbors
Sunday, January 24, 2010 at 8:18AM Everyday when we leave the CCHIPs house we are greeted by these faces:


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Sunday, January 24, 2010 at 8:18AM Everyday when we leave the CCHIPs house we are greeted by these faces:


Monday, November 23, 2009 at 2:15PM
I think I promised to post some more technical stuff than Zack, so I'd better deliver:
Shortly after I arrived, Elie and Consolate brought me up-to-speed on their efforts on Mutuelle (community insurance). It’s one of my big projects here and it consists of three pieces:
Mutuelle enrollment costs RWF 1,000 per household member for each year. The Mutuelle-subscription year corresponds to the calendar year. To prevent people from only purchasing Mutuelle when they become sick, aka to prevent adverse selection, Mutuelle must be purchased before the year begins. If families wait until the subscription year to purchase Mutuelle, they face a 30-day waiting period before their Mutuelle enrollment becomes active and can only purchase for the current year until June. Mutuelle enrollment for the next year begins in August. Thus, from now until the end of December is the important period for enrolling community members. An additional measure against adverse selection, heads of household must purchase Mutuelle for every member of their households, not just those that are mostly likely to become sick.
Mutuelle enrollment is the key to creating access to the formal health system in Rwanda. Indeed, looking at the data from 2008 in the Musanze district, there is a strong correlation between Mutuelle enrollment and health center use at the 11 health centers:

*I should note, in loyalty, fairness, and kudos to CCHIPs that “Mutuelle Enrollment vs. Target” and “New Cases Seen vs. Target” in Shingiro are both up considerably in 2009. Both gains have no doubt been helped by CCHIPs'involvement.
While correlation does not prove causality there are a few points of reality that make the distinction moot.
Therefore, I suspect that the Mutuelle enrollment rate indicates the proportion of the population that
a. believes in the formal healthcare system vs traditional healers or doing nothing at all
and
b. is able to pay for coverage.
Focusing on Mutuelle enrollment allows the health center to ‘bag’ wins and concentrate its ‘sales’ effort within a relatively small window of time. We don’t have to expend significant resources all year round trying to convince people on the benefits of using the health center. We know how many people will use the health center based on our enrollment figure, and we know the time period that we need to focus on to sell health center use for the whole next year.
A question one of my professors raised about the subsidization of Mutuelle is: ‘if you are already heavily subsidizing the system, why not just give free healthcare to everyone? Why make people pay anything at all, if that will get them to use health services more often?’
There are a few reasons:
Despite these qualifications, it is clear that Mutuelle is not an ideal system for paying for care. However, it’s hard to imagine an ideal system, given the willingness to pay for most people is lower than the cost of providing healthcare. But we’re not here to create an ideal system. We are working at a local level; we are not trying to redesign the Rwandan healthcare system or how the government should ask its citizens to pay for that system. We are trying to help the health center staff maximize the quality and usage of the health center in a way that is implementable, replicable, and can be easily monitored. Mutuelle is vital to this effort.
Sunday, October 25, 2009 at 8:35AM On the same lines as the intro to Musanze, the other question people always asking me is “what is your typical week like?” Honestly, there is no typical week here. Everything is always shifting and changing. But here’s a summary of the events from my past week:
Day One: I was helping a Doctor from the Access Project train our pharmacy manager when a man was brought in screaming on a stretcher. I went to go get the head nurse and JD as a crowd gathered. We carried him into consultation, and JD asked the Access Doctor to help examine him. He had been badly beaten and most of his pain was around his liver, which if ruptured in anyway would mean he would die. There’s no way to repair a ruptured liver in Rwanda. We carried him into the CCHIPs car and then Elie drove him down to the Hospital, while the Doctor and I returned to our Pharmacy Training.
Day Two: I met with our VCT/ARV Nurse to see how HIV cases are treated at the health centre. We started with an interview where I asked her about a typical consultation and looked through all of her paperwork. Then she started seeing patients while I looked on. I sat silently while a mother with HIV found out her newborn was HIV positive as well. The women sat staring off, as tears rolled silently down her cheeks. The nurse held her baby and tried her best to comfort the mother, then the mother left with her baby to get a blood test. I sat there all day watching consultations, patient after patient, then spent the night writing up my notes from the visit and working on a financial spreadsheet for the health centre accountant.
Day Three:
A 18 year old woman was in the hospitalization ward at the health centre with severe post partum depression. She had been beaten by her husband while pregnant and he had refused to let her deliver at the health centre, forcing her deliver alone in their house. The baby died shortly after delivery. Her husband beat her again for this, which was why she was brought to the HC in the first place. She was severely mentally disturbed, and we tried to refer her to the hospital but her family was against it and refused. Instead they tried to steal her from the HC twice. They were caught the first time by one of our hygienists and the second time by JD. We finally convinced them to refer her after this second attempt.
I drove her down, accompanied by her husband and 5 other family members. Her family sang quietly in the back to calm her as we drove. The CCHIPs team sat quietly in the back; all of us were entranced. The women would wimper when trucks would pass, thinking they were coming to take her away. We soon arrived at the hospital and the women wanted to stay in the car because she felt safe with the Musungo. The family got out and urged her to follow, telling her that if she stayed in the car the Musungo would eat her (according to the translation Consolate gave me, which she says is a common Kinuyarwandan saying). She follows and we drive home.
Day Four: A women comes up to me with her two children as I sit training the Data Manager. Her son got hit by a car and is missing a leg. Her younger daughter has deformed legs. She shows me that they are unable to bend properly, trying to bend them as the little girl cries. She wants crutches. I have to tell her to see the Titulaire to work it out, and then I return to my training.
Day Five: We have our weekly team meeting in which we discuss our ongoing projects and plan our activities for the following week. Then we have presentations from team members who are trying to finalize their project proposals. For example, I present my work with the Shingiro Accountant, and as I present the rest of the team asks me questions, and looks for ways to improve my work. After the presentations we finish up any of our remaining work for the week and then all hop in the car for “Sport”. Recently we have been playing a lot of soccer down at the stadium with the Ruhengeri Hospital Team. We usually play until dark, then I drive everyone home and have dinner, after which I usually head out with some friends and volunteers to one of the local bars, and if we are feeling adventurous, Silverback.
This was a somewhat more eventful week than normal for me, but stories like the above are pretty common here. There are many more stories that I don’t feel comfortable writing about. But missing from the above description is the tremendous amount of office/administrative work that we go through in a typical week: building spreadsheets, preparing trainings, organizing the HC staff, writing reports etc. So I often describe this job to those who ask as challenging office work, work where you have to bring new ideas into reality, in a setting that is sometimes emotionally disturbing, sometimes bizarre, often distracting, but never normal, dull, or boring.
Saturday, October 17, 2009 at 3:32AM As Mike has already discovered, one talent you quickly develop working in Rwanda is the ability to adapt quickly to changing circumstances. You can set out with a well thought out plan, but something will always happen that you haven’t prepared for and you have to adjust quickly to adapt.
Power will go out, water will stop running, there won’t be internet, meetings will be cancelled, roads closed, stores closed, people need to be rushed to the hospital; anything can happen. Recently I have had to relearn how to work without a computer. I (stupidly) spilled some tea on my keyboard a couple of weeks ago, losing the ability to type “l”, “k”, “,” or “.”. This made writing difficult. I worked like this for about two weeks, getting very good at using vocab without “k” or “l” and using “;” for commas and “/” for periods, copying a comma or period from another document and using a find and replace to correct the document when finished. I never knew how many words have “l” in them.
After two weeks, Rene told me he knew some guys who could fix my keyboard for me, and so they came over, took a look, and said they’d have it back to me the next day. A week later they told me they had only succeeded in destroying the keyboard completely and would give me an usb keyboard as a replacement until they could order a new one. Another week and a half later they finally gave me the promised usb keyboard and told me they’d have the new keyboard soon. It’s another month later and I still have to use the usb keyboard while my laptop remains immobilized by the thinly attached keyboard lying face down, revealing the inner workings of the machine.
Over this whole period I’ve been going back to the basics: paper and pen. And to be honest, I have actually started enjoying the use of this “ancient” technology. When you write on a computer, you can write whatever comes to your head, and then quickly go back and delete the unnecessary words/information and correct everything. When you write on paper, you have to really think through what you want to say in advance, as you only get one shot or you have to re-write it. It’s forced me to keep everything short and simple.
What this whole experience has made me appreciate is how difficult life must have been for all you older folks out there who grew up without this technology. I think my generation is sometimes so spoiled by technology that we forget how much the human race accomplished without the computer, without telephones, without electricity. Ultimately, success is achieved through having good ideas and putting in the work necessary to bring those ideas to fruition; technology is just a means to make such successes easier.
Monday, October 12, 2009 at 1:22AM Sometimes you have to take the slow boat to China or Mudende. Patience is not really part of a 23 year old’s repertoire of emotional or mental paces. Slothfulness, sometimes, but patience not so much. A recent Mutuelle outreach trip to Mudende tempered my ambitions and fantasies somewhat, but also gave me hope for the long term potential of CCHPS and Rwanda.
On Tuesday morning, we hoped to lead a Mutuelle (community health insurance) information session at Mudende. We drove the 20 minutes to Shingiro, picked up representatives of Mutuelle and several Shingiro nurses.
At this point I realized that the two pots of coffee and two liters of water I had consumed earlier would be catching up to me at some point during the course of the morning. Thinking nothing of making assumptions like: “oh, they’ll have a toilet at Mudende” I decided to wait.
We then drove the half hour up the winding, rocky, bumpy road to Mudende. The road is narrow and at times seems to shoot straight up the side of the hills. Elie remarked that the road was newly resurfaced, which is good because it’s hard to imagine driving on a less passable road.
I sat up front with Elie, and asked him about the people and plants as we drove. We passed fields of beans, potatoes, gooseberry, maize, eucalyptus, and bamboo. Elie explained that the altitude prevents the cultivation of coffee and that avocados grown here are much smaller than those grown in the south. The sun was bright and I waved to the constant stream of children who would run to the side of the road as the Land Cruiser rumbled by. It was a nice drive except for all the bumps in the road (and we’re talking softball to volleyball sized rocks here).
Mudende sits on what seems to be a peninsular hill jutting out into the openness of the falling hillside. As we made the final turn down the hill peninsula, we came upon a young shepherd and his flock of about a half dozen sheep. The shepherd stood on one side of the hill and his sheep on the other and as we drove past the sheep got out in front of the truck. They began running away from the Land Cruiser and down the path and we nearly herded them to Mudende. It was only a quarter mile and the shepherd ran behind us, yelling at us, the sheep, or whoever would listen. The sheep finally turned up into a field just before we entered Mudende.
As we arrived, I was in for my first “Muzungu Celebrity Experience”. Literally dozens of children began shouting “Muzungu! Muraho Muzungu!” and variations on that theme as they began chasing the Land Cruiser. We pulled up next to the community offices and we all got out. I didn’t know quite what to do, so I smiled and waved to the children. Soon, a police officer chased them away in a hilarious flock of giggles and yelling.

As is common in Rwanda, and I would guess most places with poor roads, communication, and little automobile ownership, everyone was late. We settled in to wait for the community to arrive so that we could begin our presentation. Unfortunately, as the only Muzungu in the group, this meant a lot of standing around and laughing along at jokes that I didn’t understand.
After a few minutes, I asked Rene if he could ask someone where a toilet was. He came back a minute later reporting that the nearest toilet was at the school we passed on our way in. The school was only a quarter mile away, but it also lay in the treacherous territory of the Lollipop Guild. I didn’t need 100 Rwandan school children watching me pee – talk about stage fright.
We waited some more as Elie went to find out why there were no locals present for the meeting. I took this opportunity to take in the view. The town overlooks a large valley, stretching out into the haze. Rwanda is a beautiful country, all green and brown. And yet the beauty of the landscape clashes forcefully with the poverty of its rural population. From a distance, the tin roofed huts and the smoke rising from cooking fires and slash-and-burn agriculture present a beautiful image. Rustic. For an American, it stirs within the myths of our American frontier. But when you approach one of the tin-roofed hut s and you are greeted by a small child with the big belly that signifies not over-indulgence but such malnurouishment that his body is too weak to keep his organs tight below his chest cavity, well, the myths disappear. Reality sinks in. The need is immediate, but the obstacles are many and, at times, desperately frustrating.
Elie returned and reported that no one had canvassed to spread the word about the meeting. We would need to reschedule. However, before we could reschedule we needed to wait for another member of the Mutuelle team to arrive.
I squirmed as we waited some more. Elie is a gregarious guy, so he kept everyone entertained. All the Kinyarwanda speakers anyway.
I began to circle the cell office. I noticed, excitedly, that on the back of the building seemed to be several latrines. I tried each door down the line. Locked. Locked. Locked.
I returned to the group talking and asked Rene about a toilet. He pointed to a man coming out of a small group of trees. “You can probably do that.” I considered it, but Rwanda is very densly populated, especially around the cell office. No, best not be the foreigner that comes in and pees on the country.
I returned to the group again, and noted that there was not a large group of residents waiting, but there were 15-20 elderly people waiting. I asked Elie about them. He said that they were not here for our Mutuelle presentation, and wanted to meet with cell officials to discuss other matters. Fair enough, I thought, but they look bored, we were certainly bored, why not talk to each other about Mutuelle anyway? I asked Elie. Politics. We didn’t want to step on any toes by appearing to take these people’s attention. I understood, and was grateful for the informed local perspective. But, still, frustrating.
Waiting...
Rene tries the tardy Mutuelle official’s phone, with no response...
Waiting…
She arrives! We can go! But first, the team decides we should look at the Twa resettlement project located next to the cell office. The Twa, sometimes referred to as a pygmy group (though they seemed normal height to me) are the smallest of Rwanda’s 3 “ethnic” groups.
We went and surveyed the Twa settlement. A broken door and they need a latrine. So did I. I died a little inside as my bladder nearly ruptured.
After 2 hours of sitting around, we finally left.
On the way back, we passed through the small town of Gwanda Riushya. Hikers park their vehicles here before they climb the nearby Virunga range volcanoes. With the Mutuelle meeting date for the next week set, we decided to inform the locals. We parked the Land Cruiser, and a group began to grow, curious at what we were doing/would say. Rene smiled, “this is grass roots organizing.” Note to self: Grassroots organizing is easier when your presence draws a crowd. Rene and Elie said a few words and we were off again.
Now began the serious descent to Shingiro. I was smushed in the back of the Land Cruiser with 8 other people. The back of the Land Cruiser has narrow benches on either wall, facing each other. Maximum capacity, Zack has told me, is however many can squeeze in. So I guess I should have been happy that there were only 8 people in the back. As my legs fell asleep, this probably wouldn’t have been consolation. I am still learning things about the best place to sit in the Land Cruiser. On the way up to Mudende, I sat shotgun, which is the best spot. On the way down I discovered a basic rule of thumb for sitting on the benches in the back of the Land Cruiser: when you are mostly going uphill, sit near the front. When you are going mostly downhill, sit near the back. The key is to ride on top of everyone else, and not be ridden. Unfortunately, as we descended toward Shingiro, I was in the front of the back, with 3 people uphill of me. Ugh. At this point, the combination of altitude and my desperate need to relieve myself was inducing some serious claustrophobia. Rene sat in front, happily snapping pictures with my camera. We slowed down several times for him to get better shots of Shingiro from above. My bladder screamed: Ahhhhhhh!
Finally, in a ride that seemed like an hour instead of twenty minutes, we rolled back into Shingiro. I ran into the new Global Fund building, and found the restroom. How do you spell relief?
I met up with Monique who was taking notes on a community health worker (CHW) training session. After our utter lack of turnout at Mudende, I was reminded that with trained CHWs and a system for deploying them, such a problem should never occur again. After a seemingly wasted morning at Mudende, I have the personal experience to know the value of such a system.
While I came away from the morning with my grand ambitions somewhat tempered, I took from the experience a perspective which will allow me to actually have an impact. The wild dreams and fantasies are gone, mostly. I know more of the reality of Rwanda – its poverty, its frustrations, but also the enormity of good that can be accomplished.